Old Lady
Youth Lab
Café Gramercy

Annette’s Recipe Box

The pastry Annette holds forth on, written down. Real French technique, in her voice, brought home to a kitchen you actually have. She teaches; she never scolds. Each one closes the way she does, with one French line and no translation she thinks you need.


The croissant

Butter Croissants

The whole art is keeping the butter cold while you fold. Keep it cold and the layers keep themselves.

Doucement.
The madeleine

Lemon Madeleines

The little bump on top is the sign of a madeleine made properly. Cold batter and a hot oven, and up it comes.

Voilà.
The macaron

Vanilla Macarons

Let the shells wait until they form a skin, and they bake up smooth with the little frilled foot. Waiting is half the recipe.

On attend.
The cream puff

Cream Puffs

Give the choux enough time in the oven and it holds its shape proudly. It only needs you to be patient.

Pas encore.
The éclair

Chocolate Éclairs

Let the choux cool completely before you fill it, and the cream stays where it belongs. Cool means cool all the way through.

Évidemment.
The tarte Tatin

Tarte Tatin

Let the tart rest a few minutes before you turn it over, and it comes free in one beautiful piece. A few minutes, that is all.

Un peu de patience.
The financier

Brown Butter Financiers

Brown the butter first. That nutty warmth is what makes a financier taste the way it should.

Pas de raccourcis.
The canelé

Bordeaux Canelés

A canelé wants to be dark and caramelized outside and soft as custard within. Give it the color and it gives you the crust.

Encore cinq minutes.
The mille-feuille

Vanilla Mille-Feuille

Bake the puff pastry until it is crisp, and assemble at the last moment so it stays that way.

Au dernier moment.
The kouign-amann

Kouign-Amann

The sugar folded into the dough caramelizes as it bakes. You want a deep golden, crackling outside and a soft, buttery middle.

Plus doré.
The Paris-Brest

Paris-Brest

The filling is praline cream. Hazelnut and almond praline is the whole flavor, so let it be praline.

Le praliné, bien sûr.
The galette des rois

Galette des Rois

If you hide a fève inside, tell everyone at the table before you serve. The surprise is a joy; a cracked tooth is not.

Attention aux dents.
The palmier

Palmiers

Puff pastry and sugar, and nothing else. Roll it, chill it, slice it, and let the sugar do the rest.

C'est tout.
The brioche

Brioche

Butter and eggs, and a little patience while it rises. Give it that, and it gives you everything back.

Laissez-la tranquille.
The chocolate mousse

Chocolate Mousse

Once the air is in, fold gently. Gentle folding keeps the air, and the air is what makes it a mousse.

Ça suffit.
The clafoutis

Cherry Clafoutis

The batter is meant to be thin. Clafoutis sets itself in the oven, so pour it thin and let the heat do the work.

Laissez faire le four.
The baba au rhum

Baba au Rhum

Let the little cakes cool first, then let the rum syrup soak all the way through. Time in the syrup is what makes a baba.

Encore un peu de rhum.
The religieuse

Chocolate Religieuse

Fill both little choux before you stack them. The cream between the two holds the smaller one in place, like a hand on a shoulder.

Comme ça.
The opéra

Opéra Cake

Keep every layer thin. Almond sponge, coffee, buttercream, and chocolate in balance, and thin layers are what keep the balance.

Tout en finesse.
The Saint-Honoré

Saint-Honoré

Make the parts separately, then bring them together at the end. Puff pastry, choux, caramel, and cream, each given its own moment.

Prenez votre temps.

Annette lives in the Café; her equipment lives in the Mercantile. The recipes stay here, and they are hospitality rather than a store. Back to the Café